The general rule of thumb
A common starting point for even, general-purpose lighting is to divide your ceiling height by two to get your spacing in feet — a common shortcut for a standard 8-foot ceiling lands around 4 feet between fixtures. From there, keep fixtures roughly that same distance away from walls, cabinets, and other obstructions to avoid harsh shadows along the edges of the room.
Adjust spacing for the room's purpose
- General/ambient lighting (living rooms, hallways) — standard spacing rule above works well
- Task lighting (kitchen counters, home office desks) — tighten spacing and position fixtures directly over the work surface, not just on a grid
- Accent lighting (art, feature walls) — spacing rules don't apply; position based on what's being highlighted
- Kitchens specifically — layer general ceiling lighting with dedicated under-cabinet task lighting rather than relying on pot lights alone to light the counter
Recommended: adjustable colour-temperature LED pot lights
Look for fixtures with selectable colour temperature (2700K–5000K) — flexibility if you're not sure whether you want warm or bright white lighting once it's installed.
Don't forget total wattage and circuit load
Once you know roughly how many fixtures you want, add up their total wattage and check it against the circuit you're planning to put them on — this matters more with older incandescent-style fixtures, but even LED pot lights add up quickly in a large room with many fixtures. Our Load calculator can help you confirm the circuit has room before you buy.
Step-by-step: planning your layout
- Measure the room in feet, length and width.
- Divide ceiling height by two for your rough fixture spacing.
- Sketch a grid on paper or graph paper, keeping fixtures roughly one spacing-unit from walls and cabinetry.
- Adjust for task areas — pull fixtures over counters, desks, or specific work zones rather than sticking rigidly to the grid.
- Total the wattage of your planned fixture count and check it against your intended circuit.
- Confirm attic/ceiling access and insulation contact (IC) rating before purchasing fixtures, especially for ceilings with insulation above.
When this needs a permit and a pro
Installing pot lights on an existing lighting circuit with no new wiring may not need a permit, but adding a new dedicated circuit, cutting into ceilings with unknown wiring or insulation, or working near vapour barriers and fire separations often does — and is where a licensed electrician earns their fee, especially in finished ceilings where you can't see what's already up there.